Not until the first figs appear in the market does it feel like summer has arrived. Along with ripe, lucious berries, still warm from the sun, no other fruit can transport me to another time and place as a soft, plump fig. Even better if I can pick it myself, standing under a fig tree's welcoming shade, breathing in the heady scent of its leaves and milky sap. In true fig country, the trees spring up randomly across the landscape, where much of their bounty eventually falls back to the earth. On a warm day, the perfume of a fig tree in the afternoon heat carries for miles on a breeze. There's nothing quite like following the trail and finding a fig where it ripened slowly, so heavy the slender stem strains to hold it there, juicy to the point of bursting . . .

Crostata Di Fichi

CRUST
1/2 cup blanched almonds, lightly toasted
2 tsp. crushed anise or fennel seeds
1 cup pastry flour (more as needed)
6 Tbls. ice cold sweet butter, cut in small cubes
1/2 cup confectioners' sugar
1/2 tsp. fine sea salt
1 Lrg. egg, lightly beaten with
1 Tbls. cold water
Butter for greasing 10-inch tart pan (with removable sides)

FILLING
1 1/2 cup heavy cream
1 tsp. crushed anise or fennel seeds
1 Lrg. egg, slightly beaten
1 Tbls. confectioners' sugar
12 to 14 ripe figs
2 Tbls. dark brown sugar
Optional: 1/4 tsp grated orange zest

Preparation:
CRUST: In the bowl of a food processor, pulse the almonds with the fennel/aniseeds until mixture resembles cornmeal. Add 1 cup flour, 6 tablespoons butter, sugar and salt and pulse 10 to 12 times, until texture resembles coarse crumbs. Add the egg and water, then pulse 8 to 10 more times, just until the pastry comes together. Turn the pastry onto a lightly floured surface. Form into a smooth ball, then roll out to 10 inch circle. Press dough into a buttered 10-inch tart pan, trimming edges. Cover and chill 30 minutes. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Evenly prick surface of the pastry with a fork; bake 12 to 14 minutes, until firm and pale gold. Cool thoroughly.
CUSTARD: In a medium saucepan, combine cream with crushed anise/fennel seeds over medium heat and bring to a simmer. Lower the heat to keep at a low simmer for 10-15 minutes. Stir often, scraping sides and bottom of pan, letting the spices infuse into the cream and reducing the amount by 1/3. Remove the pan from the heat and cool to lukewarm. Strain cream to remove seeds. To make custard, combine 1 cup cream with 1 slightly beaten egg and 1 Tbls. confectioners' sugar. (If desired, add 1/4 tsp grated orange rind). Beat until smooth and set aside.
ASSEMBLY: Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Cut a 1/2-inch deep "X" into the top of each fig. Arrange figs, stem-ends down, evenly around pastry shell. Pour prepared custard around the figs. Dust with brown sugar. If desired, add a few sprinkles of orange zest. Bake for 25 minutes at 375 degrees, until custard is just set and top is lightly caramelized. Cool for 10 minutes, then remove outer ring of the tart tin. Cool another 20 minutes before serving. Cut into wedges. Makes 6 to 8 servings.